Tag Archives: Urban Decay

WTF is a Primer? v1.0

As a professional makeup artist, you can imagine my shock, awe, and slight disgust when I was asked this question by my sweet, possibly Amish cousin, Sarah. Clearly one of us is adopted. How can ANYONE related to me not know what a primer is, much less not even own 1 or 5? So it became painfully obvious that this post needed to be written before she or anyone else I loved spent another day with large pores of creased eyelids. ( Somewhere, a unicorn just cried a little…)

First of all, what you need to know is that there are two major groups of primers, facial primers and eyelid primers and every woman that wears makeup needs to own one of each type. Would DaVinci ever paint a masterpiece without priming his canvas? Heck no, he wouldn’t! So why would you?  Pay attention, I’m about to break it down like RUN DMC- Today I will cover face primer.

Face Primer- As you might have guessed, face primer is to be used all over your face! A face primer is going to do several things for you, depending on which brand and type you choose. Every basic primer is going to: Fill in fine lines and wrinkles, smooth the texture of your skin, minimize the appearance of large pores, and best of all, keep your makeup on much longer throughout the day- I’m talking hours longer here, people.  Primers have now become so advanced, some of them can even correct your skin tone, keep your skin from becoming oily, and even deliver anti-aging properties and sun protection to your face. Pretty impressive.

Picking YOUR Face Primer- Now, since there are so many options out there, I’m gonna give you some quick tips before you end up wandering around your makeup counter like a lost puppy.

First, you might have a texture preference. Some primers are silicone based, and have a slippery, yet buttery soft feel. Do not mistake this for oil- it’s not. It will dry smoothly and to an almost powder-like finish.  Examples of silicone based primers are the old-school Smashbox PhotoFinish primer ($36, http://www.smashbox.com) , and my all time new fave, the Whip Hand Cosmetics “Set The Stage” primer. ($39, http://www.whiphandcosmetics.com) They are good for all skin types, and really give your skin that ultra-smooth look, like you’re walking around in real-time photoshop.  I adore the Whip Hand Primer because it feels like whipped silk, on your hands and your face, and a little bit goes a LONG way. It;s getting rave reviews from makeup artists everywhere, not just me.

Other primers, like the classic Laura Mercier Foundation primer ($32, sephora.com), have a light gel base, and are reminiscent of smoothing aloe onto your face.  It’s lighter texture is often preferred by people with very oily skin, or who want a very natural feel to their makeup. These also seem to perform better in really humid climates for some people. Also in this category is the amazing Make Up Forever HD Microperfecting Primer ($34, sephora.com). I love this particular brand when I need a color-correcting primer for clients with discoloration issues, like rosacia. The green version will subdue the red, giving you a more even skin tone. Feeling extra pale and sallow? Pick up the purple version! I know- it seems weird to be putting these colors all over your face, but it’s basic 5th grade color theory. Complimentary colors, when put on top of one another, cancel each other out.

So, now that you know the difference between the two kind of primers out there, you just need to go let your fingers do the walking, touch, feel, and play in the different formulas and find one that you like.

How to Use- Think of your primer as the last step of your skin care- using your fingers, put it on a clean, moisturized face, immediately before any concealer or foundation go onto that pretty mug of yours. If you want a super flawless and even coverage, you can also buff it in lightly with a sponge, but once you get the hang of it, your fingers should work just fine. Just remember- less is more, and it’s easier to add than take away. Using too much primer can result in your makeup sliding right off of your face…it just won’t be able to get a good grip on your skin. Now you are ready to apply your foundation and concealer like a pro! You go,girl!

Still have questions? Probably. If you’d like my advice on picking the right primer for you, leave me a message in the comments below, telling me about your skin and the foundation that you currently use. I’ll do my best to set you up right. And stay tuned, because coming soon…

WTF is a Primer v2.0- Eyeshadow Primers- The Revenge of the Greasy Crease! A Plethora of Primers

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Airbrush Makeup- Is It Really All That?

So for years now, bridal magazines and blogs have been touting airbrush makeup as a ‘must have’ for brides on their wedding days. Claims that it is a long-lasting as well as a lightweight, natural looking foundation have all brides clamoring for it, and only hiring makeup artists that can use this technique. But as a professional makeup artist with almost 20 years of experience under my belt, I have seen the pros and cons of airbrush makeup. Here are my thoughts on the whole debate…

Airbrush makeup, while easy for a trained professional to apply, is only made for one skin type. So if my client has very oily or dry skin, it’s not nearly as effective as a foundation that is made for those specific skin types. It won’t control oil, and won’t hydrate dry skin. Also, if you have more mature skin, I find it has a tendency to settle into fine lines and wrinkles, effectively aging the client. Since it’s only sprayed onto the skin and not actually work into the skin like a traditional foundation, it can look great for a bit, but then gravity takes it’s toll, and, BAM, all of those textural tiny flaws in your skin really stand out.

Maybe it’s because I am old-school, but I often prefer to ‘hand paint’ my clients, even though it takes me longer than simply blasting a client’s face with my Iwata compressor and gun. I carry an arsenal of different foundations in my kit, including Armani, Face Atelier, MAC, Urban Decay and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics

A little glimpse into my makeup kit

A little glimpse into my makeup kit

, which allows me to custom blend a foundation specifically for their skin type, coloring, and the effect they want, such as matte, natural or radiant finish. It also allows me to use the least amount of product necessary to get the coverage they want.  And with the correct application technique, priming and finishing products, any foundation can be long-wearing, will give an ‘airbrushed’ appearance and should feel light on your skin.

And as for the claim that airbrush makeup lasts all day?  Any experienced artist will have a treasure trove of primers and setting sprays that will make ANY makeup last for at least 12 hours!

 

Don’t get me wrong, airbrush makeup is great on certain clients! But when consulting with your makeup artist about your wedding day makeup, ask them what your options are, and which one would suit your skin the best. Like your wedding style itself, it’s not a ‘one size fits all’ technique.

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